The Beaten Path, Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness (2018)

In 2009, while living Japan, I took a month long trip back home to visit family. During this trip my Dad and I did several day hikes in the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness. He had been living in Montana for several years and we had not hiked together since I was a little kid. On one of our hikes my Dad mentioned an inclination to backpack through this area. Although I had never done anything more than a day hike, the idea of sleeping under the stars in the remote wilderness not only scared but thrilled me. Nine years later we turned that desire into a reality and planned our first multi-day backpacking trip. The 4 day trek would take us across the Beaten Path; a 26 mile thru-hike showcasing the beauty of the Beartooths. The trail features 15 lakes, enormous granite cliffs, cascading waterfalls and gorgeous mountain scenery. It is considered one of the most popular trails in the Beartooths and was the perfect trail for our introductory multi-day backpacking trip.

Our trip began at the Clarks Fork Trailhead just outside Cooke City, Montana. Excitement and anxiety filled the air as we were about to spend 4 days and 3 nights in the remote Montana wilderness, aka grizzly country. Day 1 would take us 6 miles past Kersey Lake up to Russell Lake where we would spend our first night. We would ascend 1,160 feet through a dense lodgepole forest, sections of which were burned during the 1988 Yellowstone fires. The thick air and hazy horizon were stark reminders of the current wildfires burning all over the west.

A mile and half from the trailhead we pass above Kersey Lake before dropping down to a small open meadow. The day is hot and we are running low on water, not sure when we will find our next water source we fill up our bottles from a small spring. Four miles in, the trail begins to hug the banks of Russell Creek as it slowly ascends to the base of a canyon just below Russell Lake. The tranquil creek is crystal clear and looks refreshing on the hot summer day. At the bottom of a large boulder field we spot a tree with large scratches down its trunk. Bears have been on our minds all day and this tree does nothing to ease our fears. The last mile will be the toughest of the day as we head into the canyon. We arrive to a very crowded Russell Lake late in the afternoon. Exhausted and hungry we are fortunate to find one last campsite. As day 1 comes to an end we retreat to our tents just as the rain begins to fall.

The morning of day 2 is cold and foggy making it difficult to roll out of our sleeping bags. Our plan for the day is to make it to Dewey Lake, 6 miles from Russell Lake. As we prepare to head out we watch at least 4 other groups make their way out, one of which is a party of 12. It’s now obvious why this trial is called the Beaten Path (and why there was only 1 campsite left). After leaving Russell Lake we will climb to Ouzel Lake, pass by Bald Knob and Skull Lake before ascending to just under 10,000 feet. The trail from Russell Lake climbs through the forest before coming out into a large marshy meadow. As we climb above the timberline the fog begins to break and we are greeted to a bright blue sky. The scenery from Ouzel Lake to Skull Lake is absolutely breathtaking and we are in awe most of the day.

The approach to the pass begins just after Skull Lake. We have been moving slow taking frequent breaks in order to catch our breath. 5 hours after leaving Russell Lake we see the large cairn marking the high point of our trek. We have ascended almost 1,500 feet over the course of 4 miles. After taking a moment to enjoy our accomplishment we begin the descent to Dewey Lake.

Just on the other side of the pass sits Fossil Lake, the highest and largest lake on this trek. Winding our way around this alpine lake the high plateau opens up and we are rewarded to more spectacular scenery. Eventually the trail comes to the edge of the plateau where it meets the East Rosebud drainage. It is late in the day and Dewey Lake is another 2 miles down the trail. We decide that if any good camping spots present themselves we will call it a day. The terrain on either side of the trail is steep and rocky making the chances of finding level ground seem none existent. With a mile to go we find the perfect location tucked into a grove of pine trees. As the sun begins to set we prepare dinner happy to have a little piece of this wilderness all to ourselves.

Day 3 we awake to another chilly morning, the air is crisp and we are slow to get moving. Backdropped by a sunlit mountain we go through a series of yoga poses to help get our blood flowing. Our destination for the day is Rainbow Lake, 8 scenic miles down trail. On this stretch of trail we will pass by 5 lakes, numerous waterfalls and catch a glimpse of Granite Peak. As we lace up our boots the party of 12 emerges from behind the grove of trees we called home for the night. We are caught off guard as we had no idea they were camping so close to us, it’s a simple reminder of just how vast the wilderness really is.

1 mile from our campsite sits Dewey Lake followed by Twin Outlets Lake, Impasse Falls and Duggan Lake. Now that we are below the timber line the smoke has returned to the horizon. As we approach Dewey Lake we can faintly see the granite walls of Mount Dewey rising up behind the lake. Despite the smoke the next 2 and a half miles will be some of the most scenic of the trip. The trail skims the banks of Twin Outlets Lake and peeks over the top of a rushing waterfall as East Rosebud creek continues its descent. The trail becomes a little bit sketchy as it passes above Impasse Falls and Duggan Lake.

After following the East Rosebud for almost 3 miles the trail turns north heading toward Granite creek. As we pass by a boulder field we spot the tip of Granite Peak rising above the distant mountains. The trail turns southeast at Granite Creek as it makes its way towards Big Lake Park and Lake at Falls. The single track trail above Lake at Falls offers an excellent view of the two waterfalls plunging hundreds of feet down the mountainside. In 6 and a half miles we have descended over 1500 feet, with another mile and a half to go.

Upon leaving Lake at Falls we are once again following East Rosebud creek as it makes its descent into Rainbow Lake. Although we can not see the creek every so often we can hear it roaring as it cascades through the drainage. Soon we come to a clearing which offers a specular view of Rainbow Lake. With a little less than a mile to go we descend a series of switchbacks lined with wild raspberry bushes. We arrive at Rainbow Lake with plenty of daylight to spare. It is the first night we are able to sit around the campfire and enjoy the evening.

Day 4 will be our last and toughest day on the trail. The 8 mile trek will take us around Rainbow Lake, past Rimrock Lake, down to Elk Lake, ending the trip at East Rosebud Lake. Taking our time to pack up camp we enjoy our last morning in the wilderness. We begin the hike out by channeling our inner billy goat as the trail climbs high above Rainbow Lake. With the lake about 100 feet below us, we are literally on edge as the narrow, rocky trail hugs the side of the mountain. 1 mile past Rainbow Lake we arrive to Rimrock Lake only to find a real billy goat blocking the trail. Luckily he lets us pass and we were able to cross the bridge without running into any trolls.

The next two miles we will descend over 900 feet as we traverse through a massive canyon. As we slowly make our way along the rocky trail we are captivated by the sheer granite walls towering hundreds of feet above us. After what feels like forever we finally exit the rocky canyon as the trail continues to follow the rapidly flowing East Rosebud creek all the way to Elk Lake.

We reach Elk Lake hungry, exhausted and hot. We find a shady spot next to the lake to have lunch and cool off. The last 3 miles of trail will take us through an area that was burned during the 1996 Shepard Mountain Fire. The new growth offers little to no relief from the heat and our motivation is fading with each passing step. Although the smoke dulls our views the jagged mountains that line the canyon are a magnificent sight. With about a mile and half to go we come to a rock outcropping and are able to spot East Rosebud Lake in the distance. 4 days and 26 miles later we arrive at the East Rosebud Trailhead. Proud to have finished our first multi-day backpacking trip we celebrate at the Grizzly with burgers and beer.

Gaia GPS

For more pics and video clips of this hike Check out my YouTube Video!