Sioux Charley Lake, Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness

I wrote this essay for my college writing course. The theme had to be something to do with travel. I remember how much I enjoyed writing about our experience and that was where my idea for this blog began. This is the first part of a two part essay, the 2nd half is Mystic Lake.

My Dad is a man of few words; he seems to be most comfortable when he is outdoors. Whether it is hunting, fishing, hiking, gardening or taking a drive through the country my Dad cherishes the moments that his family comes along for the ride. As a little girl I always looked forward to these excursions, but as the years passed my Dad and I grew apart and the bond that we once shared got lost in the mix. In the summer of 2010 while visiting my Dad in Montana I asked him if we could do some hiking, it was the perfect opportunity for us to spend some father-daughter time doing something we both love. Just north of Yellowstone, in south central Montana lays the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness; it is 900,000 acres of pristine wilderness, and my Dad lives right on the edge of it.

After arriving at my Dads house he show me two hikes he has found in his Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness book that are both near his house and short enough we can do each of them in a day. The first hike is an out and back past Sioux Charley Lake to Cathedral Point and the second is another out and back past Mystic Lake to a trial up to Froze to Death Divide. We decide to do the easier Sioux Charley lake hike on the first day and save up some energy for the steep climb up to Froze to Death Divide for the second day.

Two miles past the Stillwater Mine is the Stillwater Trailhead, which is the starting point for this family friendly hike. The trail to Sioux Charley Lake begins on a narrow rocky path, the cascading waters of the Stillwater River on one side and the a slightly slanted vertical canyon wall on the other. As my Dad and I begin this fairly easy day hike I experience a little deja vu. Following my Dad down a trail encompassed by the natural sounds of a gushing river, the occasional melodies of a chirping bird and the shuffling of our feet, are all sounds that bring back childhood memories of spending time with my Dad.

The trail cuts away from the river and enters a heavily forested area, every now and then opening up like a window to the sky. The horizon is a jagged edge of rocky peaks soaring above the dense tree line. At one particular clearing the bare ground beneath the trees turned into a golden meadows dotted with scarlet wildflowers. My Dad tells me these flowers are called Paint Brush and and I can see why, they look like an artist’s paintbrush dipped in red waiting to color the landscape. About 2 miles in we come to another clearing and are standing above the Stillwater River which has turned from a violent river, rapidly flowing through a narrow canyon, into a soothing stream, gently moving along the high countries valley floor. The view is incredible and I can feel the spirit of these mountains inviting me in and although my Dad doesn’t say anything I can sense that he feels the same.

Sioux Charley Lake is not really a lake at all but just a section of the river that is so still it could be mistaken as a lake. The high country meadow where we stand offers a spectacular view of Sioux Charley Lake, which is back dropped by a towering rocky ridge speckled green with coniferous trees. The Stillwater River widens into the valley of this ridge creating a lush landscaper which seems to be the perfect setting to spot a moose. As we continue along the trail I am starting to feel a connection with my Dad that I wasn’t sure we could reclaim. Like finding the lost piece to a puzzle that was hiding in the most obvious place, something about the fresh air, the beauty of the mountains and the joy filling us both is rekindling our father daughter bond. Three miles into the hike we arrive at Sioux Charley Lake, although we do not stay long because we still have another three miles to go before reaching Cathedral Point.

The trail continues to follow the Stillwater River, which has once again turned back into your stereotypical mountain stream, swiftly flowing as it bends and curves its way through the terrain. After a couple hours of weaving our way back and forth along the river the sound of water fades as we come to a clearing overflowing with fir trees not much taller than me. As we make our way through the thick timber, my dad pulls out his bear spay, which as been attached to his pack since we began. I apprehensively ask him, “Is this bear country?”

He replies with a chuckle, “This entire wilderness is bear country.”

I knew before we started that the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness is home to both black and grizzly bears but the beginning of the trail was so heavily used I did not really think we were in any danger. Now, I am a little nervous. We are 5 miles into the hike and we haven’t seen any people since Sioux Charley Lake, my senses are on high alert. My Dad is in front of me and I am trying to not think about everything we can’t see in this crowded, pint-sized forest. The trial finally starts to climb above the cover of deep firs and Cathedral Point is in view. Rising behind the ocean of green fir trees, Cathedral Point is a steep sided mountain, ranging in colors of brown, gray and pink; its rugged crest coming to a peak near the blue sky. I think to myself this may be one of the most majestic places I have ever been. Little did I know the beauty awaiting us at Mystic Lake.